Grayhaven Winery

April 16, 2026.  It’s surprising, perhaps, to find a man of the world operating a vineyard and winery in Goochland County, halfway between Richmond and Charlottesville.  But Gum Springs is where Grayhaven Winery has been operating since 1978 and where you will find owner and manager Deon Abrams, a certified man of the world.  He’s not especially a boisterous man but his long craggy face tells of having seen many places and lived many lives before Gum Springs.  They tell of growing up in Johannesburg, being conscripted into the South African Defense Force, leaving home for Egypt, and Israel, and England, and finally New York City, of being a mover in the culture of “outsider art” from his gallery in Chelsea. 

  

And in New York, Deon met his wife Max Peple, whose family founded and operated Grayhaven Winery.  Deon and Max returned to Grayhaven in 2001 to take over winery operations from founders Chuck and Lyn Peple.  Among his many lives, Deon had worked in his family’s vineyard so coming the Grayhaven wasn’t as abrupt as might be imagined.  Grayhaven was only the 22^nd Farm Winery in Virginia in 1994.  Deon and Max now preside over 12 acres of vines, three horses, two dogs (including Zeke), and a large pond of hungry koi.  They and their son, Azra, manage to produce 2,000 to 2,500 cases of wine a year. 

In addition to what he produces from his own Virginia grapes, Deon figures that around a half of his inventory is from South Africa.  His South African connection includes wines from vineyards he leases in his homeland and wine from other growers and wineries.  He is a frequent visitor back home maintaining his commercial and familial relationships.  More on the South African link shortly…

On an unnaturally hot April afternoon, Deon found us some shade in the shadow of the tasting room barn and visited with us for a while.  The barn was open with no air conditioning that I could see or feel.  The main illumination in the barn is from the open doors and a pair of stain-glass lancet windows.  What look like monastery doors can open onto the back patio,  The barn is dark wood  some of which I suspect was harvested from the property as Deon said he may use the oak he cut himself on the property in his wines. 

 

Around the barn is a wide concrete patio with umbrella tables and metal wicker chairs.  Deon advises that they hold weddings on the back patio that overlooks their forest.  Their horses also get free range. 

 

Across from the barn is an odd haphazard-looking Hobbit house that I believe used to be the locus of activities at the winery – tasting room, club activities; the production facilities are downstairs.  When we visited, however, the house was only open for restroom use.  The interior was being used for storage.  The floor sagged.  To get to the house, cross a bridge over the koi pond where you can gain a friend for life by throwing them a cracker. 

 

Grayhaven has honored South Africa by hosted the South African Food and Wine Festival for the past twenty years.  Apparently, this is their biggest event, happening in later Summer.  The Festival brings together food and wine and music for a multi-day celebration.* 

 

Deon is already working hard on the festival for 2026, which typically happens in September.  However, with tariffs recently imposed on South African products and with tougher immigration policies, there is a very high probability, according to Deon, that the Festival won’t happen this year.  The next couple of weeks will decide.

Deon served us a broad sample of his inventory from his home country and his Virginia farm.

2025 Sauvignon Blanc M.A.N.  This is a wine from the Stellenbosch area of Western South Africa, named after the owner’s wives Marie, Ann, and Nicki.  A nice crisp version of Sauvignon Blanc.  I rate it a B.

2022 Terre Brûlée Chenin Blanc.  Another South African wine – this time from the Swartland region.  The product of old vines, it has a little cream and less acid.  B+.

2024 Floriography.  Hailing from the Western Cape region of South Africa, Floriography is a blend of Chenin Blanc, Marsanne, Muscat, and Viognier.  Floral and peachy.  Good for the humid summers of central Virginia.  B+

2024 Sutherland Rosé-Grenache.  This is a wine from South Africa’s Elgin Valley.  Delicate, strawberry.  Some tannin from the Grenache.  B.

2023 Grayhaven Rendezvous.  We finally come to a Grayhaven wine!  The Rendezvous is a blend of Pinotage and Chambourcin.  Light-bodied, nicely balanced.  Soil forward.  (Deon told us we were tasting the 2023.  He did not put a vintage on the label in order to save label printing costs.)  I gave it a B+ to A and bought a bottle.

2020 Grayhaven Trekker.  “Trekker” means “pioneer” in Afrikaans.  This is a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend, favoring Left Bank in the proportions.  Smooth and smoky on the finish.  Uses French oak.  I gave it a B.

Grayhaven Pinotage.  I forgot to get the vintage year for this wine.  Pinotage was developed in South Africa in the 1920s as a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault.  Deon is one of the earliest planters of Pinotage in Virginia.  Deon grows some of this Pinotage at Grayhaven and some is imported from property he leases in South Africa.  Lots of spice and smoke.  Great for having at a barbeque.  I rate it a B+.

2024 Braai.  Speaking of barbeque, “braai” is Afrikaans for a barbeque or grill especially cooking red meats.  This wine is from the Western Cape of South Africa.  I found it vegetal.  Dark fruit and some black pepper.  It gets a B from me.

2024(?) Grayhaven Rivercrest.  Deon had us try Grayhaven’s Tawney Port-style wine using Touriga grapes and French brandy.  A classic combination.  18% ABV.  I gave it a B, knowing that I’m not a Port drinker.

NV Grayhaven White Lychee Sangria.  Our last wine was a Sangria – Smooth and dangerous with strong lychee scents and a side of pear.  I gave it a B.

We had a nice talk with Deon and visit with Zeke on a lazy Thursday afternoon.  I hope he arranges to have some cooling facilities before the real heat of Summer arrives.  That would make Grayhaven a nice rest stop from the nearby Interstate 64.  Deon told us they call him “MacGyver” for his way of improvising solutions.  Between the facilities and the Festival, he will need a dose of ingenuity soon in his little unexpected slice of South Africa. 

 

*Photo used by permission of Deon Abrams