Shenandoah Vineyards
July 10, 2025. Our first stop on this year’s trip to Shenandoah Valley is to the winery that started it all back in 1976, the first winery in the Valley – Shenandoah Vineyards in Edinburg. This is also the second oldest active winery in the Commonwealth.
Jim and Emma Randel started the winery after relocating from New Jersey to Emma’s family property in Shenandoah County in 1974 so that Jim could recuperate from a heart attack. They began with seven and a half acres of vines in 1976.
They repurposed the ground floor of an old Civil War-era barn as their production plant; its stone foundation kept a stable coolness. Upstairs they opened their tasting room to the public in 1979. The barn is still in use today although the front staircase from the main parking area is, fittingly, densely overgrown in twined grape vines.
Jim Randel passed away in 1985 and left Emma to run the property on her own, which she did with great success. A visit by Hilde and Allan Lee in the 1990’s recounts that Shenandoah was producing around 13,000 cases of a wine a year. In her later life, Emma retained the services of Michael Shaps as a wine consultant and eventually sold the property to him in 2018. When Emma passed away in March of this year at the grand age of 98, a great deal of history passed away with her.
Photo from Heishman Funeral Homes, Inc.
When we visited Shenandoah, we met Jessica Goode and her associate Lois who were on loan from the Michael Shaps winery in Charlottesville to staff the tasting room. Jessica was interviewing applicants for tasting room manager since the former tasting room manager left the position. Jessica and Lois, a recently retired Federal civil servant, were brand new to the property, learning about it and the wines along with us and sampling a bit as well. Shenandoah Vineyards has 28 acres of vines in limestone soil at a nice elevation on the western side of the Valley. Mr. Shaps was quoted as saying he was excited about the Riesling that grew here. Jessica remarked that lately Mr. Shaps has been consolidating his properties. He closed his tasting room on Avon Street in downtown Charlottesville. And his plans for Shenandoah Vineyards are to sell it. On-line listings have it between $1.8 and $2 million. It doesn’t sound as if much is planned in the way of capital improvements.
The tasting room is paneled in knotted pine giving the room a forlorn brown monochrome. A couple of sofas and easy chairs are found on the main level in a secluded nook. A small interior balcony is upstairs.
Jessica said that the winery does not have many events, which is understandable as these public spaces are fairly small. But Shenandoah has a history of hosting harvest festivals, concerts and wine dinners. Outside there is a shaded porch made even shadier by the grape vines. There is also a nice lawn for picnics. Children, pets, and outside food are welcome. It is an easy detour off of Interstate 81.
Here’s the wines we sampled on this lazy afternoon:
2019 Riesling. One of the selling points for the winery is its Riesling, growing at a cooler favorable elevation. The wine is dry, light, and crisp. 100% Riesling. ABV of 10.5%. Kim rated it a C+.
2019 Pinot Gris. Another light wine but with a touch more ”ommph” at 12.5% ABV. Some minerals on the palate. Reasonably priced at $26.00 a bottle. Kim gave it a B.
2019 Chardonnay. Kim rated the Shenandoah Chardonnay a B-. It is $28.00 a bottle which is still within the reasonable range. Similar ABV to the Pinot Gris.
2019 Blanc. “White” is a blend of 60% Vidal, 23% Seyval Blanc, and 17% Traminette, giving an off-dry, floral wine. 12.4% ABV. Kim gave it a B- even with the favorable $25.00 per bottle pricing. This might resemble the Blanc Shenandoah made in the 1990’s with Riesling instead of Traminette.
2021 Chambourcin. Shenandoah has an unusual Chambourcin blend. It has the 75% proportion of Chambourcin required to carry the label. Beyond that, you have 13% Cabernet Franc, 11% Norton, and 2% Brandy. I suppose the brandy is responsible for the slight sweetness. The wine is full-bodied with low tannin even with a listed ABV of only 11.7%. Again, I suspect that wee bit of brandy is to blame. Some plum and cocoa notes. I rated it a B. Shenandoah has long been known for their Chambourcin,
2022 Reserve Red. The Shenandoah Reserve Red blend is 33% Cabernet Franc, 33% Petit Verdot, 25% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. This Bordeaux-style wine is brighter than the Chambourcin with stronger tannin. At the upper end of medium-bodied range with an ABV of 14%. Lots of fruit. I rate it a B+.
2021 Cabernet Franc. Definite pepper and medium tannins. Vegetal notes. Winner of a Gold medal in the 2023 Governor’s Cup. 13.5% ABV. I gave it a B compared to the volume of Cab Franc’s I consume(!)
2021 Lemberger. One grape you find more readily in the Shenandoah Valley is Lemberger, also known as Blaufränkisch. the famous in Austrian grape. This wine is 88% Lemberger, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium-bodied, light tannin. Dry and slightly floral. Medium finish. 12% ABV. Nicely drinkable. B+
It felt as if a piece of history was getting ready to leave us. Perhaps Shenandoah Vineyards will find a new owner who can bring a rebirth to the vines and the wines that can be made from them. Let’s hope.
Comments
Post a Comment