Introduction to the Northern Neck George Washington Birthplace AVA

June 21, 2024.  For the next several posts, we will be detailing our visits to wineries in the Northern Neck George Washington Birthplace American Viticultural Area (AVA). 

The Virginia Wine Marketing Office groups the Northern Neck and the Middle Peninsula (between the Rappahannock and the York Rivers) as the “Chesapeake Bay Region.”  The wineries on the two peninsulas have organized themselves into the Chesapeake Bay Wine Trail.  Go to their site at: https://chesapeakebaywinetrail.com/ to check out sample itineraries, wineries, discounts, and lodging. 

We kept our trip focused on the wineries of the AVA itself, the 100-mile long, 10-to-20 mile-wide peninsula bounded by the Potomac River and Potomac Creek in the north, the Rappahannock River in the south and the Chesapeake Bay in the east.  The AVA ends at the Stafford County line in the west. 

Check out the guide map for the Chesapeake Bay region at Virginiawine.org: https://virginia-wine-prod.s3.amazonaws.com/ji79hmn6e2iu587e6s9o4pz3pscq.  The AVA is within the dotted lines. It comprises five Virginia counties: King George, Westmoreland, Northumberland, Richmond, and Lancaster.  You could divide it up the wineries between those in the western part around Colonial Beach and Oak Grove, the middle part, around 30 miles away around Hague, and the eastern part, another 35 miles away around the town of Kilmarnock.

When Carl Flemer, founder of Ingleside Vineyards, petitioned to establish the AVA in 1987, his was the only winery on the Northern Neck.  There were 16 vineyards in the area including Lucie Morton’s Moreland Farm in King George County (no longer open to the public) and only 92.5 acres of grapes planted.  Today, according to the Virginia Wine Marketing Office, there are ten wineries in the AVA.  This blog’s inaugural post in May 2021was about Ingleside.  We hope to re-visit Ingleside on this trip and introduce ourselves to most of the other wineries. 

The Terroir.

The regulators found that “[t]he climate of the [AVA] is milder, its native plants are of more southern variety, its snowfall less severe, its frost-free days greater, and its temperatures more even and moderate than the adjoining Piedmont Plateau Region located to the west.”  The fanning effect of the bay and two rivers moderates the climate in the Northern Neck. 

The soils are alluvial, as you would expect, sandy clay and loam and other well-drained types in the river flats with excellent air circulation.  But the elevation on the Neck only goes up to around 190 feet above sea level along the ridge which extends generally through the center of King George County and eastward through Westmoreland County. 

The Name and History.

The greatest debate about the AVA was what to call it.  Mr. Flemer proposed “George Washington Birthplace,” while the regulators proposed “Northern Neck.”  After sifting through many comments, the regulators concluded that the peninsula was commonly known by both names, and thus the AVA carries both.  See, 52 Fed Reg 13079 (April 21, 1987).  Besides George Washington, President James Madison was born in King George County, and President James Monroe was born in Westmoreland County.  Virginians may recognize that the Lee Family’s ancestral home, Stratford Hall, is in Westmoreland County.  You may also see some markers as you drive along describing battles during the War of 1812 and the Civil War.  Lots of history to explore when you’re not having wine. 

If you are having wine, raise a glass for the Carter Family at Cleve Plantation in King George County.  They successfully made the first wine in British North America, as recognized by a British scientific organization and the royal governor of Virginia (1763).#

About Town.

Driving east from Fredericksburg, down the spine of the peninsula along Route 3, you will see mostly farmland with occasional small crossroad towns and roadside businesses, ending up at the relatively posh towns of Kilmarnock, Irvington, and White Stone.  We even passed an Amish horse-and-buggy along Route 3, part of the growing Amish community in the Northern Neck.

We headquartered ourselves in Kilmarnock, which straddles the Lancaster and Northumberland county lines.  Some good restaurants in town include the Lee Restaurant for seafood, Chao Phraya for Thai cuisine, the Kilmarnock Inn for traditional American, and the Car Wash Café for good casual food (adjacent to the car wash – for real).  Be aware, however, that Kilmarnock seriously rolls-up the sidewalks around 8 pm, even on Friday nights.  For breakfast, we recommend the Front Porch Café on South Main Street - lots of soft leather sofas and a good mocha.

 

We also explored the town of Irvington about five minutes away.  This is the home of the famous Tides Inn resort.  Visit Geoff, the bartender at the Salt and Meadow, say "hello" from us.  Irvington is also home to the Hope and Glory Inn and its restaurant, the Dog and Oyster, which is advertised as a “micro-vineyard.”  We understand that their wine is not made from the bedraggled vines on the property. 

     View from the Tides Inn

 

                                                        Hope and Glory Inn

Conclusion. 

We found the Northern Neck a family-friendly, laid-back corner of the state.  Being surrounded by water on three sides, there are abundant opportunities for water sports and fishing, and lots of parks for hiking and camping.  And a growing tourist sector to help you enjoy them. 

Let’s get to it!

# https://www.pcwinery.com/history/  accessed on June 19, 2024.  See also our blogpost on Philip Carter Winery.

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