Good Luck Cellars
June 22, 2024. About a five minute drive from the center of Kilmarnock, you will arrive at Good Luck Cellars, a winery and vineyard that has had its share of bad luck in its fairly short history.
Paul and Katie Krop came to this site and incorporated the business in 2004. Previous owners had stripped all of the topsoil from the land in furtherance of a gravel and sand dredging operation. It was also a well-known dump for abandoned vehicles and farm equipment. Hillsides that now spot vines had to be reclaimed from those extreme depredations, cleaned-up, and reconstituted.. The Krop’s planted their first vines in 2005 and opened for business in 2011. They had a going vineyard by the time the disastrous 2018 Virginia vintage drenched the state and ruined the harvest. Then came Pandemic time. Even though the winery was allowed to operate with its ample open spaces, a tornado took the roof off of the tasting room. Insurance money repaired the roof and funded a beautiful wrap-around porch. Then in October 2020, Paul Krop passed away.
Today, Katie Krop carries on the vineyard and winery with help from Denny Sulick in the cellar, Danny Pena on the vines, and Matthew Meyer of Williamsburg Winery, as winemaking consultant. Katie, a former pediatric nurse, is a force of nature in the field and in the cellar. At age 78, tall and burnished, she was out pruning on one of the hottest days of the year. Her attitude is largely responsible for Good Luck Cellars having one of the happiest tasting rooms we have encountered – full of laughter and family photos. We also recognize that tasting room manager, James Garnett, and his crew contribute to a welcoming atmosphere.
Due to the heat, we passed the on the wrap-around porch. But there is a lot of seating out there and an outdoor fireplace for the cooler months. Inside, there is limited seating in front of a hearth whose mantle displays their awards. Windows afford a view of several of the vineyards. There is a cupola that you can access for even wider vistas. Outside food is allowed. Dogs are allowed on leashes outside. On the subject of dogs: You should be aware that your dog may encounter one of Good Luck’s “dog squad” of more than ten rescue dogs from a local shelter that are loose in the vineyards to scare away hungry wildlife from the fruit.
Behind the tasting room bar there is a 4,500 square foot event space for weddings and the like. Good Luck takes advantage of the stage that Paul Krop installed to sponsor a chamber music concert series and periodic productions by the Richmond Opera. What a refreshing change from the usual musical fare at wineries!
Good Luck Cellars has 25 acres of vines growing 12 varieties of grape. When they were planted, there was some mystery about what would grow well on the reconstituted land. What Katie has found is that the varieties ripen at different times, permitting a harvest in manageable stages instead of all grapes peaking at once. With the harvest coming in increments, Katie is able to optimize the crush with her smallish wine press. Good Luck does all of their production in-house, around 4,000 cases annually. The wine is 100% estate grown. Besides at the winery itself, Good Luck wines are distributed through the Virginia Winery Distribution Company to some restaurants in the Northern Neck.
Kim and I both had tasting. Our impressions follow:
2021 Four Blonds. This is a blend of Chardonel, Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc and Traminette. Kim rated it a C+ as too light.
2022 Vignoles. Vignoles is a grape combining a hybrid called Seibel with a clone of Pinot Noir called Pinot de corton. It is mostly grown in New York State, and rare in Virginia. This is Good Luck’s first harvest of it. Kim found it too light overall and rated it a B-. Nevertheless, it’s reasonably priced, and we bought a bottle.
2022 Chardonnay. All of Good Luck’s whites are aged in stainless except for Chardonnay and Chardonel. Kim rated the regular Chardonnay as a B-. This medium-bodied wine was too light for her, not too memorable. Oak aging for 18 months gives it some minerality.
2022 Viognier. Kim says this wine is “too bland.” B-. May be a little too delicate for a Viognier. Despite Kim’s score, this Viognier won a Silver medal at the 2024 Virginia Governor’s Cup competition.
2021 Chardonnay Reserve. My bride rated this wine highest in her tasting. It is aged 21 months in oak which delivers some creaminess and thicker mouthfeel. She rates this Reserve a “B.” She would have rated it higher were it not for the price tradeoff.
2021 Rip Rap Ros̩. This is a Cabernet Sauvignon/Chardonel blend Рstrong on the Chardonel. Resemblance to cranberry, yet the finish is unexpectedly light. B.
2021 Red Reach. Although Good Luck calls this a rosé, the blend of Chardonel, Chambourcin, and Cabernet Sauvignon is more complex than your typical quaffable rosé. Very deep color, strong Chambourcin bordering on jammy, light-bodied. Some lingering on the finish. I rate it a B.
2021 Chambourcin. The dark currant and jamminess belie the light body. There may be some citrus at the back of the throat. No tannins. B.
2021 Cabernet Franc. 30 months aged in oak. Bright red fruit and pepper. Mild tannin, medium-bodied. Short finish. Off dry. Tasting notes don’t indicate any other blending grape is involved. B.
2019 Petit Verdot. I would say that this is a full-bodied wine except that the tannins are not overpowering. Drier than the Cabernet Franc. This was a Silver medal winner at the 2023 Virginia Governor’s Cup.
Good Luck Cellars is well-situated to easily serve the eastern peninsula with quality wine in a happy setting. You should go.
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