Philip Carter Winery

April 20, 2024.  Today we find ourselves toward the western end of Interstate 66 and Fauquier County at the Philip Carter Winery in Hume.  It’s early afternoon in the bright sun of late spring, and I am on a tour of the property with Vic the guide, standing in their rows of Cabernet Franc where a couple of leaves are unfolded on each cane.  I reckon they were at EL-9, about three weeks ahead of growing schedule.  The lyre trellises stand like scaffolds waiting for the vines to climb them. 

There are 15 acres under vine at Hume and an additional acre is to be added this year.  The 25-year old Cab Franc vines are a holdover from the old Stillhouse Farm that Philip Carter Strother, owner of the winery, bought in 2008.  Philip Carter Winery is a fictitious name under Stillhouse Vineyards LLC.  The Strother family also owns Valley View Farm about ten miles away.  The farm has some grapes under vine but is focused on other fruit and orchards.  According to Vic, altogether they grow some 13 varietals on their properties.  (Their website, which needs updating, refers to a third vineyard near Warrenton.  Don’t know if this is still a contributing source.) 

Vic also said that wine production takes place at another winery and bottling takes place there or another place in the Culpeper area. 

Philip Carter Strother is the principal at the Strother Law Firm in Richmond and played a big role in passage of the Virginia Farm Wineries Act in 2005.  He is also very proud to be a direct descendant of the famed Carter Family of Virginia – that of Robert “King” Carter of Shirley Plantation and other places.  Philip Carter Winery bottles display a slogan: “Founding Family of American Wine,” and some winery materials display a crest and “1762.” 

Time for a short digression into history:  “King” Carter begat Charles Carter who owned a plantation in King George County called “Cleve.”  It was Charles who planted 1,800 vines at Cleve and whose wines were the first American-produced wines to be internationally recognized, per a medal awarded by the Royal Society of the Arts in 1762.  In 1763, the governor of the Virginia colony certified that the Carter family was successfully growing European vinifera grapes at Cleve.  Thus, while Mr. Jefferson gets most of the attention about early American wine making, Charles Carter’s efforts pre-date those of Mr. Jefferson at Monticello.

The Philip Carter Winery today features a two part tasting venue and a recently added deck for wine club members (2022).  Mr. Strother renovated the original Stillhouse Farm barn as the upstairs tasting venue with a barrel room and a basic winemaker’s lab below ground.  Vic said that the barrel room is around 1/10th the size of the room at Paradise Springs Winery – like the small holding area at Wisdom Oak Winery.  Downstairs, the owner added a high-ceilinged tasting room with lots of light and beautiful local art on the walls.  There is a nice wood-burning fireplace for the cooler months. 

 


The L-shaped buildings partially enclose an outdoor patio with fine Adirondack chairs and a view across the vineyard.  Outside food is welcome.  Very limited food selection on site.  Dogs are alright outside in the yard or patio.  Kids are welcome. 

It seemed the winery was under-staffed and distracted for a Saturday.  We had to follow up with winery manager, Zach Muncy, for more details on production, vineyards, and facilities and other points.  We may revise this post when we get them.

We took in a standard tasting of eight wines.  I elected not to include two sweeter wines – a white dessert wine and a port-style wine.  We thank Vic, an award-winning winemaker in his own right, for his insights on the tour and guiding the tasting.

2022 Shirley Chardonnay.  Kim and I agreed that this was a B wine.  It has a nice floral aroma and some creamy mouthfeel from the 100% Malolactic fermentation.  Some acidity at the end.  Fish and creamy chicken would pair well.  In doing some research for this post, I discovered that Mr. Strother had unsuccessfully attempted to register “Shirley” (as in “Shirley Chardonnay”) and “Shirley Plantation” as trademarks.  Another branch of the Carter family objected.  They are the branch that owns Shirley Plantation, a going business as a historic home.  If you want to read all about it, check out: Shirley Plantation, LLC, Upper Shirley Vineyards, LLC, and Charles H. Carter v. Stillhouse Vineyards, LLC, No. 91216395 (TTAB November 7, 2018) accessed at https://casetext.com/admin-law/shirley-plantation-llc-upper-shirley-vineyards-llc-and-charles-h-carter-v-stillhouse-vineyards-llc.

2022 Sabine Hall Viognier.  Sabine Hall is another Carter family property, unconnected with the author of this esteemed blog.  The Viognier is very light for this varietal and does not have much of the floral aroma Viognier is known for.  We rate it a B.

2022 Governor Fauquier.  This is an off-dry 100% Vidal Blanc wine aged in stainless steel.  Acidity is nicely balanced.  A good summer wine that might pair with spicy ethnic dishes.  I rated it a B+. 

2021 Rosewell Rosé.  The Philip Carter rosé is from 100% Chambourcin.  The winery tasting notes say this is a full-bodied wine, but to me it is light-bodied and weak.  Not sweet.  I rate it a B-.

2022 Valley View Red.  The Valley View Red is the winery’s blend of Cab Franc, Tannat, and Petit Verdot.  Some dark cherry.  Medium-bodied.  Tasting young with little attack or finish.  Could do okay with a barbeque.  I rate it a B.

2022 Nomini Hall Cabernet Franc.  Named after another Carter family historic site, the winery’s Cab Franc offering has good balance, some tannin bite and finish.  Medium-bodied.  Some cherry and leather notes.  Pairs with a nice leg of lamb.  I rate it a B+.

2022 Magnolia Farm Norton.  This is a blend of Norton and Chambourcin grapes all from the Hume property, according to Vic.  Deep color and full-bodied.  Carried some vegetal aroma.  Seems unfinished.  I rate it a B-.

2020 Cleve.  As noted above, Cleve was a site rich in wine history for Virginia and the Carter family.  Their flagship red is a blend of 50% Tannat and 50% Petit Verdot.  Full-bodied.  Good aromas of raspberry and earth.  Nice attack and finish from the Tannat.  A well-realized wine.  Good with rich meats.  Rated a B+.

Philip Carter is pretty close to the Markham exit from Interstate 66 so a detour to the winery is easy and can be rewarding.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Linden Vineyards

Endhardt Vineyards

Sunset Hills Vineyard