Gray Ghost Vineyard and Winery

March 29, 2024.  After a week of dreary rain in Northern Virginia, the last Friday in March was predicted to be sunny and beckoned us to the wineries for a Good Friday.  We drove west from Warrenton on Route 211 leaving both Fauquier and Culpeper counties before coming to Rappahannock County.  About halfway between Warrenton and the hamlet of Washington, Virginia, you will find a clutch of wineries around the small crossroads of Amissville.  The oldest of these, and in fact the first winery in Rappahannock County, is Gray Ghost Vineyard and Winery where Al and Cheryl Kellert opened shop 1994.  One turn off of Route 211 into their driveway is all it takes.

 

Gray Ghost sits on land that was the former campground for the 7^th Virginia Calvary (“Ashby’s Calvary”) after Gettysburg.  It is not uncommon in farming their 14 acres of vines to turn up a Civil War artifact or two.  Many are on display in the tasting room.  The Gray Ghost name is in honor of one of Al Kellert’s relatives who rode with Colonel John Mosby, nicknamed “the Gray Ghost.”  Al and Cheryl bought the property in 1986 and sold grapes to other wineries until 1993 when they reserved their output to make their own wines.  Al put his background as a chemistry major in Illinois to move from wines he made for his personal use to a commercial operation.  Congratulations on their 30^th Anniversary this July!

Their 8,000 vines produce between 2,500 and 4,000 cases per year depending on the harvest.  All of their wines are estate grown – five reds and five whites. 

Bright sunshine bathed the high-ceilinged tasting room on our visit.  The production facilities are housed in a renovated 13-stall horse barn that had been moved to this location in Amissville.   

 

Up a flight of stairs is the plush Mosby Room appointed with stuffed leather sofas, assorted sculptures, and oriental carpets. Tongue and groove ceilings hang between the dormer windows, separating little nooks for conversation and sampling.  It has the slight mustiness of an old club.  Musak® plays discretely.  There is a narrow deck off the room that affords a view of the older gnarled vines. 

 

Outside food is permitted inside or out at Gray Ghost.  Children are welcome.  Pets are allowed outside.  The facilities can host small gatherings like bridal showers.  Business meetings are the like can rent the Ranger Room for corporate events.  Al and Cheryl prefer to focus on winemaking and not on weddings and events.  That is also why they have not diversified into the beer and spirits market as many wineries have done.  Thanks to the Kellert's for keeping it real.  They also do not participate in the Virginia Governor’s Cup wine competition.  The entry requirements are onerous for an establishment like Gray Ghost.  They prefer to enter national and international competitions where their wines have had success.

Al Kellert is a hale man in his mid-70’s with a ruddy complexion and an enthusiastic way about him.  Even though she uses a walker, Cheryl Kellert is all over the tasting room and facilities.  We also met Amy Payette, their daughter who handles marketing for Gray Ghost.  (In a nod to the still small community of Virginia wine, Amy’s husband, Tom, was winemaker at Prince Michel and has won awards as winemaker at New Kent and Fox Meadow wineries.  He is also a national wine consultant). 

                                                           Amy Payette, Cheryl and Al Kellert

Amy took us on a short visit to the Gray Ghost Library and barrel room in a separate building below ground where the temperatures are constantly cool.  As you might imagine, a winery with a 30-year lineage has an impressive collection of past vintages – as nicely displayed as any connoisseur’s collection.  

One more point before getting to the important business of the wines: Gray Ghost is one of the few wineries we have found that openly advertises volunteer harvesting opportunities.  Most wineries refuse out of concern for their vines.  I am always looking for experiences that can better inform this blog and as a result,  signed up for the harvesting work later this year.  I hope to be able to capture that experience for you. 

We were honored that Al Kellert took time to personally conduct our tasting and recount the history of the place. 

2023 Seyval Blanc.  The 2023 vintage will be ready for release in a couple of weeks.  We got a sneak peek.  The wine spent 5 months in Hungarian oak which leaves it somewhat mellow for a Seyval Blanc.  Slightly off-dry and mineral.  With citrus.  B.

2022 Chardonnay.  The regular Chardonnay has been fermented sur lie in old French oak.  No malolactic fermentation.  Typical apple and hint of vanilla.  Kim rated it a B-.

2021 Reserve Chardonnay.  The Reserve Chardonnay is aged in new French oak with sur lie and malolactic fermentation.  The fruit profile is much more complex than the regular Chardonnay and the mouthfeel creamier.  Kim rated it a B.

2022 Vidal Blanc.  Al said this hybrid was bred at Cornell University for the Virginia climate.  (Not sure about this as Vidal Blanc is usually associated with cold weather climates).  It is quite floral as you’d expect of a Vidal and summer melon on the palate.  Great Summer wine.  Kim rated it an A and we bought a bottle.

Victorian White (NV).  While the Chardonnay above used French yeast, the Victorian White is a Chardonnay with German yeast, resulting in a wine with some sweetness.  Kim rated it a B+.

2022 Gewürztraminer.  The Gewürztraminer is even more floral than the Victorian White.  Good with spicy Asian cuisine or turkey or salty ham.  Pineapple and peach notes.  Off-dry.  Kim rated this one an A-.

2023 Riesling.  This wine will probably have been released by the time you read this posting.  Al says that he used the Alsatian approach which might indicate no oak or only neutral containers throughout.  The result is a Riesling that is drier than a German Riesling.  Still it has .8% residual sugar making it off-dry.  Kim rated it a B.

On to the Reds!  All of the reds at Gray Ghost are unfiltered but they are star bright in their clarity.  Al told us that he hand picks the grapes and avoids grape crushing.  Gentleness in production has an object of producing very smooth, low tannin wines. 

2021 Ranger Reserve (Red).  This is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Petit Verdot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec, and 7% Merlot.  Each component in the blend was aged separately for 18 months before blending.  It is a very soft, low-tannin wine, using the lack of filtration to help extract the most from controlled contact with the skins.  Some mocha and dark fruit notes.  I rated it a B+ and bought a bottle.

2021 Petit Verdot.  The Petit Verdot is dark and full-bodied with some tobacco notes and plum.  Yet, like Gray Ghost reds in general, it has no real tannin bite unlike more typical Petit Verdot.  Very smooth.  I rate it a B.

2021 Cabernet Sauvignon.  Another mild, low tannic red.  But less fruit and more vegetal.  Some cocoa notes.  I rate it a B+.

Victorian Red (NV).  This is one of Gray Ghost’s rosé selections.  It is a Cabernet Franc/Chardonnay blend aged in stainless steel.  Semi-dry with some residual sugar.  Raspberry notes.  Kim and I diverged on our ratings, so I think we’d land on B+. 

2023 Adieu. (Late Harvest Vidal).  Just released.  Al allowed “noble rot” for Vidal Blanc’s extended growing season.  The botrytis leads to peach and honey notes and a residual sugar of 3.5%, but not cloyingly sweet.  Good with desserts like cheesecake.  Rate it a B.

Come by and visit Al and Cheryl on your way to the Shenandoah National Park.  Buy some wine to go with your picnic at one of the overlooks along Skyline Drive.