Boxwood Estate Winery

December 7, 2023.  We felt it was high time to get back to our winery visits after taking a break over Thanksgiving.  We drove out to Boxwood Estate Winery which has a Middleburg address but is just over the county line in Fauquier County. 

Approaching Boxwood from the south on Route 626 just outside of Halfway, you will pass the distinctive ochre-colored, white-columned manor house at Wavery.  This was the site of Piedmont Winery, the first commercial winery in Virginia’s modern era.  It is amazing that in just one generation we could move from dairy farm to nascent winery to, with Boxwood, a purpose-built modern winemaking facility encircled with extensive producing vines.  So much more is in store for us in the Commonwealth.

Boxwood Estate Winery is owned by John Kent Cooke, the former president of Washington’s professional football franchise.  He appears to have brought together a stellar supporting cast to help establish his winery: Lucie Morton for viticulture, Stèphane Derenoncourt on winemaking, and the late Hugh Newell Jacobsen to design the facilities.  First vines were planted in 2004; the winery opened in 2005, and had its first release in 2006.  Sean Martin has run the place from the start.  He is John Kent Cooke’s son and a certified sommelier in his own right.  We met Sean as he was spritzing the holiday greenery next to us.  We had a nice chat with Sean during our visit and appreciate his time with us.  Interesting fact: Sean’s sister, Rachel Martin, co-owns and is the winemaker of Oceano Wines in San Luis Obispo.  Quite some winemaking chops in this family.

We also thank our wine guide, Marcus Witten, and Boxwood’s Marketing and Events Manager Lisa Christopher, who both spent more time with us than we deserved.  (As it turns out, Lisa is going on the same international wine trip as we are next year.  We’ll have to compare experiences.)  These notes combine inputs from Sean, Lisa, and Marcus. 

Boxwood is laid out in a cross reminiscent of a sacred space, where you can see the stainless-steel fermenting tanks, the bottling and production floor, and the barrel aging room all from the crossing point, at the reception desk.  When we visited Boxwood years ago, we were struck by its bright steel modernity in contrast with most Virginia wineries.  There is no cozy fireplace.  We see now the use of fieldstone, the high cupolas, and the care of an underground cave. 

It is clear the focus is on winemaking, not event planning because the facility has little extra indoor space to spare for large gatherings.  Small pre-events like a rehearsal dinner, for instance, or smaller corporate meetings would be alright here.  Our tasting was held in the bottling room and tastings are also held in a bright white hall of floor to ceiling shinny tanks.  Even fancier tastings are set-up in the wonderful Cave, a circular fan of French oak barrels with that delicious perfume of sleeping wine.  There is outdoor seating on the patio and “firetables” are available at no charge for the cooler months.  (We did note a lack of handicapped parking near the entrance.)  Boxwood is a 21+ facility.  No children or pets.  No outside food except for birthday cakes.  Check with the management.

 

Wines at Boxwood are 100% Estate grown from 26.5 acres of mostly Bourdeaux varietals.  All are ENTAV-certified (see our “What Grows” page for more information).  They produce around 6,000 cases per year available to buy at the winery or at some VABC stores, Total Wine, markets, and local restaurants. 

Kim and I both had the Cheese Pairing Experience which is the “entry-level” tasting at Boxwood.  Five wines are served with suggested cheese parings along with some cold meats and fruit.  The wine selection on our tasting and all of the other tasting choices change about once a quarter.

2022 Sauvignon Blanc.  Kim rated this 100% Sauvignon banc a B+ and bought a bottle.  It is a new release, playful, tart, light, and lemony.  Pairs well with cheddar cheese.

2022 Sauvignon Gris.  Sauvignon Gris is a hybrid of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris grapes.  Kim found it too weak and light for her tastes and rated it a B-.  I thought it had lower acid compared to the full Sauvignon Blanc and somewhat more complex.  It was paired with a sweet Stilton cheese. 

2021 Rosé.  The Boxwood Rosé is a rare example of a blush made with multiple reds: Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.  Some Sauvignon Blanc is added to keep the process honest.  This salmon-colored wine is pretty sophisticated for a Rosé and paired well with aged Gouda.  Tasting notes suggest watermelon.  We rated it a B.

2020 Trellis. I rated it a B+ and bought a bottle.  It is a blend that leads with Cabernet Franc followed by lesser proportions of Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec.  The tannin is slow developing and balanced.  Dark fruit and plum flavors.  I wrote “brooding.” 

2020 Topiary.  Boxwood turns up the Cabernet Franc proportion for the Topiary blend; predominately Cab Franc with Merlot and Petit Verdot.  It is a little lighter in color compared to Trellis.  More Bordeaux-like and grounded.  Some pepper on the palate.  I rated it a B.

2020 Boxwood Reserve.  Sean also served us a glass of 2020 Boxwood Reserve. It has the color of aged red-brick facing.  Stronger tannins and subdued fruit.  Some tobacco smoke.  Very sophisticated with hints of an after-dinner drink without sweetness.  I wrote "for lamb, baby!”

When you leave Boxwood heading north you will quickly come into the town of Middleburg.  Route 50 runs down the center of the town which was all decorated in green and red for the holidays.  We stopped and had a late lunch at Tremolo on East Washington Street.  The specialty at Tremolo is great wine and small plates “French-tapas.”  The escargot and garlic sausage were excellent, and we thank General Manager Nicholas Arriagada for sharing a bit of his history with us.  This is a man passionate about his work.  Best of luck to Nick and his family.