Chiswell Farm and Winery

October 25, 2023.  We continued our drive for about ten minutes or so to Chiswell Farm and Winery in Greenwood.  This is a new winery – only open for two years – owned by the Chiles Family, one of the largest fruit growers in the state.  Haven’t heard of them?  Well, if you are in the Charlottesville area this time of year, pay a visit to Carter’s Mountain Apple House on the same road as you take to Monticello.  Carter’s Mountain is the Chiles’ apple orchard, offering spectacular vistas across the valleys to the east and west.   From here, you can make out Mr. Jefferson’s Rotunda peaking above the old trees at the Academical Village.  You can also pick your own apples or buy apples in any incarnation you wish:  ten varieties of whole apples, apple pies, cider, caramel apples, and of course apple cider donuts.  Yum!

The Chiles Family have been in the apple and peach fruit business since 1912, before coming to wine grapes.  Mr. Chiles at age 88 is still involved in operations even as their Fourth Generation is coming into its own.  In 2020, the 180 acres at Chiswell Farm came up for sale and the Chiles snapped it up.  This was property that used to belong to Lady Astor, back in the day.  According to Cynthia Chiles, the Chiswell general manager, it was only after the purchase that the family decided to use the manor house as a tasting room and place to sell their own wines.

The family has over 100 acres of grapes under vine, ten at the Chiswell site and another 100 between Carter’s Mountain and Batesville.  The sites are elevated enough to escape frost.  While the Chiles’ were no stranger to growing fruit, making wine was a new thing.  Their annual production of around 2,500 cases is through custom crush arrangements with Michael Shaps and  King Family Vineyards for the Chiswell rosé and sauvignon blanc.  Chiswell’s first wine in 2019 was a sweet Petit Manseng, just by chance as the grapes were still hanging at late harvest.  Cynthia and the family still had to become familiar with the rules and regulations on the fly.

 

The house is wonderfully situated on a hill with fields of soybeans and hay stretching out below.  A tobacco auctioneer from Florida built the place in the 1920’s as his summer house.  You approach the home on a gravel driveway and park below for a short walk up.  Or you may drive-up and let your passengers off at the front door before descending the oval driveway back to parking.  For the colder months, the house has three fireplaces inside.  The Chiswell house had been a Bed and Breakfast at one point under prior ownership.  Cynthia says there are no plans to offer a B&B on site.  Instead, the upstairs rooms can be rented for small groups and are available for wine club members.  Cynthia is exploring further events with the Albemarle County authorities balancing events with the conservation easement that covers the farm.

Chiswell is a 21+ facility and no pets please.  Cynthia wanted us to make sure to say that.  Outside food is welcome. 

Cynthia and the staff we met, Sarah and “M-E,” were welcoming and approachable.  Cynthia herself is blessed with limitless energy as she splits her day between Chiswell and Carter’s Mountain almost 20 miles away.  We were fortunate to catch Cynthia for a short chat in the Adirondack chairs on the front lawn.  It was a pleasantly warm afternoon with the leaves above us seemingly illumined from the inside by a secret cache of sun. 

  

It was clear that she is a fruit grower instead of a winemaker. (I don’t think their plans include ever moving wine production in-house).  Asked about the shortage of grape fruit in Virginia, she can outline the recent history of harvests including the amazing 2023 harvest.  Before 2023, there was not enough fruit for the number of wineries in the state.  2023 changed that equation, at least for the short term. 

Chiswell offers two flexible tasting flights where you choose four wines from a menu: a Rosé-Red-Sweet Flight, and a Sparkling-White Flight.  Chiswell wines are sold at the manor house and some at Carter’s Mountain, but not more widely.  Here are our impressions.

2021 Chardonnay.  Kim rated this a B+.  Good aroma, floral.  Apple.  Long finish.

2020 Rosé.  I rate this a B.  Very gold in color for a rosé.  Dry and light peach.  On the cusp of sparkling.

2020 Cabernet Sauvignon.  I rate this a B+.  A Little burn on the back of the throat.  Light tannins.  Light-bodied for a Cab Sauv. 

2021 Merlot.  While this is smoother than the Cab Sauv and not as spikey, and tastes of dark fruit, it is not as distinctive as the Cab Sauv.  Mild tannin.

2021 Cabernet Franc.  More fruit forward.  Tastes of smoke and a moderate tang.  Low tannin nd some green pepper.  B.

The Chiles Family anticipates the Chiswell Meritage coming next summer.  Perhaps they can capture some of this sunny harvest time.  You’ll find Chiswell a quiet welcoming winery and worth the trip if you are in Western Albemarle County. 

 

Location: 430 Greenwood Rd, Greenwood, VA 22943, USA

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