SummerWind Vineyard

September 8, 2023.  We continued our day trip to wineries on the southside of the James River with a stop at SummerWind Vineyard in Isle of Wight County near Smithfield.  The approach to SummerWind is through the posh Days Point area and the property slopes down to a creek off of the Pagan River.

SummerWind is owned and operated by the Pugh Family who began grape cultivation in 2005.  We were fortunate to catch owner Kim Pugh between chores in the vineyard and also to meet her daughter, Meghan, who manages the tasting room while managing her three-year old little, too.  Kim, with a bun of grey hair and sharp eyes, talked to us some about the operation.  We certainly appreciate her time and the team’s thoughtfulness.

The tasting room is housed in an attractive frame house with a small indoor space and tasting bar.  (Know that SummerWind has no posted handicap parking, but you are welcome to let off your passengers at the end of the gravel circle at the house and then park.  The Pugh’s have to comply with some restrictions on parking imposed by being in the Chesapeake Watershed zone.)

 

 SummerWind is a smallish operation.  The house has a fireplace for the cooler months.  A small patio has umbrella-covered seating and a firepit.  Special occasions like weddings  tend to take place on the quiet slopes of their creek.  There is a plank trail out into the marsh for the nature lovers.  SummerWind does not permit outside food in the house, but they have a good menu for on-site food.  Given that the temperature was in the upper 90’s that day, we opted to be in air conditioning!  Their nachos and caprese salad offerings were great and filling.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 

 

SummerWind began as a supplier to other wineries in Virginia.  In 2017, they began using the bulk of their harvest to make their own wines.  The vineyard normally has around 12 or 13 acres under vine and produces between 1,200 and 1,500 cases per year.  Last year, however, they lost five acres to Pierce’s Disease mostly affecting Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot varietals.  [You may remember a short discussion of Pierce’s Disease from our conversation with Dr. Mizuho Nita (July 2023).  This is a plant disease carried by leafhopper insects.  Mizuho mentioned that in parts of Virginia temperatures do not get cold enough in milder winters to kill off the bugs.  This part of Southside is one of those areas.]  The vineyard currently has only 8 acres with a resulting drop in production to only around 400 cases this year.  But Mizuho is consulting with SummerWind and Upper Shirley Vineyards in Charles City on responses to this grape killing infestation.  Kim is already starting to replant with more resistant vines, I believe with Chardonel and Chambourcin, and is planning to ramp-up for future seasons. 

Kim produces some wine in order to qualify the business as a Virginia Farm Winery.  But for the most part SummerWind is a custom crush client of the ubiquitous Michael Shaps.  Their wine is between 90 and 95% estate grown.  All wines are with 100% Virginia grapes.

We were also able to visit with long-time server Kristen.  Here are our impressions of the wine.


                                                                                  Kristen at SummerWind

2020 Chardonnay.  Kim found this Chardonnay very floral and light with grapefruit notes.  According to SummerWind’s on-line tasting notes, the grapes for the Chardonnay come from Whitehall Vineyard near Charlottesville.  She rated it a B.

2022 Viognier.  The Viognier got higher marks – a B+ for this medium bodied, floral offering.  Good balance of acid and a creamy mouthfeel. 

2018 Cabernet Franc.  The Cab Franc is fairly standard, medium bodied, with pepper and dark cherry.  Kim Pugh noted that the 2019 Cab Franc will undergo appassimento with a more concentrated heartier result. Something to look forward to – and to ask for.  I rate the 2018 a “B.”

2018 Merlot.  This is a B+ from me.  More complex fruit, more plums.  Tannins noticeable but not dominant.  Medium body.  Highest ABV of the wines we tried at 12.9%.

2018 Petit Verdot.  Subtle fruit, medium bodied.  Herbal.  Controlled tannins.  B+

2018 Tormentor’s Red.  This is a “Meritage-style” blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot.  Medium to full-bodied.  Strong tannin.  Some vanilla and dark fruit.  Not particularly complex. 

SummerWind is well worth the stop if you are wandering on south of the James.  

 

http://www.swvsmithfield.com/

71 Eagle Nest Lane  Smithfield, Va 23430  757-357-2173

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