Brix and Columns Vineyards

June 26, 2023.  Our last stop on this short trip to the Valley was a visit to Brix and Columns Vineyards in McGaheysville, Rockingham County.  Our approach to the winery is through the part of the 16 acres under vine and the pastures of the working farm just off of Route 33 between Harrisonburg to the west and before ascending into the mountains to the east.  Standing on the portico of the winery with its stately columns, you are almost under the promentory of Massanutten like a brooding spirit. 

Roger and Stephanie Pence bought the 160 acres of Six Penny Farm in 2003 and soon had a wedding venue.  Then winery owners came asking to lease some of the acreage for grapes.  The Pence’s took the hint, and, after taking enology courses, began planning grapes in 2015. 

Brix, of course, refers to one of the common measures of grape sugar.  Columns refers to the white columns that line the approach and, with the red bricks, give the property a distinctive Jeffersonian feel. 

The tasting room opened in 2017.  It is a long room adjacent to an impressively large and fancy reception hall, befitting the wedding venue that it is.

Outside food is welcome.  There is lots of outside seating, both open and on a covered porch. 

According to our server, Donna Bohlin, the wine is currently around 80% Estate-grown.  The other 20% is all Virginia fruit.  They are working toward 100% Estate.  On the production side, wine is made through a custom crush arrangement with Michael Shaps.  They produce around 3,000 cases a year.  But, like expanding the grape growing efforts, Brix and Columns is working towards their own production.  Here’s what Stephanie Pence had to say:

“This year we are planning to make our Chardonnay, Viognier, Cab Franc and Port style. We are very excited about this venture.  Joy Ting will be consulting with us.  Our Viognier will be in stainless steel and the Chard & Cab Franc a mix of new and neutral French oak.  Our port style will be dried in our tobacco barn and then aged in Virginia oak.”

[Joy Ting is an enologist with the Virginia Winemakers Research Exhange and a winemaker in her own right.]  The transition to on-site production will begin with Chardonnay and Viognier. 

Thanks to Donna and her hospitality.  Here are the results of our tasting:

2021 Rosé.  Kim gave the Rosé a B++.  Lots of citrus and orange.  A great accompaniment for lighter summer fare.  

2020 Chardonnay.  Kim gave the Chard a C-. 

2021 Petit Manseng.  Won Gold in the 2023 Virginia Governor’s Cup and Kim rated it a B+.  Full-bodied and more citrusy than many versions of Petit Manseng that you’ll find.  . 

2019 Viognier.  In comparison, Kim found the Viognier on offer to be too sweet.  Indeed, notes show a fairly high percentage of residual sugar.  Some honey notes.  Full bodied.

2020 Cabernet Franc.  I rate the Cab Franc a B.  Herbaceous on the nose, light, mild tannin.  Brambly.  Not too complex.

2020 Kerus II.  Kerus supports Kerus Global Education, a non-profit in Harrisonburg that helps children orphaned by HIV/AIDS in South Africa.  I gave the wine a B+. It is more complex and balanced (fewer individual notes) than the Cab Franc.  Chambourcin is the backbone of this round wine, but less pronounced fruit overall.  Short finish.  Only 11% ABV. 

2019 Petit Verdot.  This is a Silver Medal winner at this year’s Governor’s Cup.  I rate it a B.  It has spice on the nose, more tannin-forward, short finish.  Almost like that chlorine scent from the pool.  Alcohol is 13.9% ABV. 

2019 McGahey Red.  Another Silver Medal winner this year.  Brix and Columns does not use the “Meritage” label, but this is their closest analog.  The McGahey Red uses Merlot, Petit Verdot, Tannat, and Cabernet Franc.  A little smoke and light vanilla.  Easy mouthfeel, cherry flavors, and medium tannin.  Light finish.  A “B.” 

2020 Six Penny Postscript.  The Brix and Columns Port-style  wine is made mostly from Chambourcin grapes, the Chambourcin that Stephanie mentioned as dried in their old tobacco barn.  Rosé, Tannat, and Merlot grapes are added to the mix.  You can feel the alcohol on the edges of your tongue as the wine goes down warmly.  Could use a touch more acid to balance the 1.8% residual sugar.  I rate it a B.  But our readers that favor Ports should try this themselves. 

Hallielujah Sparkling Blanc (NV).  Brix and Columns has a white and a Rosé sparkling wine.  Donna was nice to let us sample the White sparkling, which is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes with minimal residual sugar.  Kim’s didn’t like it too much.  But I did.  The residual sugar is well-balanced by the high acid and light bubbles.

This is an elegant stop on the road between Harrisonburg and Standardsville/Madison.