Jefferson Vineyards
May 14, 2023. By the time we arrived at Jefferson Vineyards, which adjoins Mr. Jefferson’s Charlottesville home at Monticello, the party was already in full swing. The singer sang “Margaritaville” in the afternoon sun to a packed house. Salt! Salt! Salt! Somehow we grabbed the last table and settled in.
Jefferson Vineyards has some 22 acres under vine across four plots. The 12 acres of the Upper Vineyard is on land originally planted in 1774 by Thomas Jefferson’s expert, Philip Mazzi. Mazzi’s plantings eventually suffered the fate of Virginia vines over history: plant disease, rapacious pests, and war (Revolutionary Hessians, and both sides during the Civil War). The vineyard was re-established in 1981 by Gabriele Rausse and now grows Petit Verdot and Viognier. Back then it was called Simeon Vineyards after the little depot outside their gates at the sharp bend in the road. [More about Gabriele Rausse and his winery in later posts.] Jefferson releases around 8,000 cases per year. Approximately 80% of the fruit is from the four vineyards while the 20% remainder is from elsewhere in the Monticello AVA.
In addition to the active vineyard, Jefferson has over 600 acres dedicated to a conservation easement to preserve its wilderness character. Picnics are welcome as there is limited outdoor seating. Groups larger than eight are strongly discouraged. Dogs are okay outside and in the smaller tasting room. The tasting room itself is cramped for the volume of visitors Jefferson gets by being next door to Monticello and down the road from Ash Lawn.
In January 2023, after more than 80 years of ownership by the Woodward family, Jefferson Vineyards was acquired by the Thomas Jefferson Foundation for $11.75 Million. We spoke with tasting room manager, Joanna Hooker, about what changes she expects from the new owners. While she readily admitted that no one at Jefferson has a window into the Foundation’s business case development, Joanna did expect the status quo for the immediate future. All current staff to remain, including winemaker Chris Ritzcovan. You might see some capital improvements such as expanding the parking lot or improving the facilities to handle weddings, which Jefferson cannot accommodate today. Something to watch.
Jefferson has two wines in the 2023 Virginia Governor’s Cup Case (2019 Meritage and 2021 Petit Manseng), won another two Gold medal wines in that competition, and four Silver medals. A very accomplished operation.
Tasting Note: We noticed that at Jefferson and several other vineyards, tastings are served in tiny glasses (or not in glass at all). By limiting smell and sight, the tasting must rely on taste and mouthfeel for the whole impression, perhaps the weakest sensory elements. Please, let’s have tasting in proper glasses that we can swirl and nose into before we taste.
As for the wines at Jefferson, Kim decided to have a glass of white wine while I went through a flight of red. Here are our results:
2021 Chardonnay Reserve. Must be good; Kim bought a bottle. B+
2020 Vin Rouge. This blend of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc had a herbaceous aroma and sweet palate. Light tannin with little finish. A good simple wine. B.
2021 Cabernet Franc. Lightly floral in aroma. Some pepper and tannin. Medium body. B
2021 Merlot. Stronger tannin. Some tobacco and pleasant off-dry finish. B
2021 Petit Verdot. From the “Lower Vineyard” (Apple Vineyard) planted in 1998. Sweet on the initial palate then drying to the tannins. Blackberry fruit. B+
Comments
Post a Comment