Paradise Springs Winery

December 9, 2022.  On a crisp December morning, I made my way out to Paradise Springs Winery in Clifton, down curvy but fine roads that I know so well.  In full disclosure, Kim and I are long-time members at Paradise Springs since the wine is good and it is close to our home.

Paradise Springs is the closest winery to Washington, DC, and in 2010 became the first winery to open in Fairfax County.  Its opening came after owners Jane Kinchloe and her son, Kirk Wiles, overcame a zoning challenge from the Fairfax Board of Supervisors and concerns from neighbors with heavy commercial traffic and drunk driving.  The zoning dispute was largely resolved by the Virginia Alcoholic Beverage Control Authority in favor VABC licensing of Paradise as a farm winery taking precedence over local zoning.  [See the Atmosphere page for further details.]  Neighbor concerns with commercial traffic on the local roads and drunk driving also appear to have been resolved in the zoning and public comment process.  (By the way, I understand that there have never been any drunk driving arrests from Paradise Springs in its 12-year operation).
The first thing many people experience at Paradise Springs is the popularity of the place.  Being so close to Washington, expect the place to be jammed on a nice weekend.  We advise trying to get to Paradise early as the ample parking can fill up.  You should have no problem parking on weekdays.  Further, the winery sits at the end of a road it shares with Hemlock Regional Park and the Bull Run River.  Many people hike and camp (and park) at Hemlock and visit Paradise after a good hike to experience some chill time. 

The main tasting room is high-ceilinged with a good view of the barrel room. 

 

There is an open back deck with a fireplace and space heaters.  Outside seating includes reservable fire pits, and a large dell for picnics.  Paradise does not accept seating reservations except for the limited firepits or if you have a large party.  For the big events, there is a separate barn venue on the property.  Outside food is allowed in all seating areas.  Paradise also has an on-site food truck serving pizza, paninis, and such hot food.  The Virginia Wine Pass is not accepted.

When you arrive at Paradise Springs, you will pass a postage stamp size vineyard.  But don’t be deceived.  The winery produces between 12,000 and 13,000 cases per year from 100% Virginia grown fruit.  That is because the winery sources from three main vineyards: (1) from a Shenandoah vineyard it shares with Rappahannock and Naked Mountain wineries; (2) from Williams Gap Vineyard; and (3) Silver Creek Vineyard (for Rosé and sparkling wines).  Paradise Springs also supplements its juice from Chrysalis (for Norton) and Breaux (for Sauvignon Blanc).  At those production levels and with well over 200 tons of grapes from the 2022 harvest, output at the Clifton facility is nearly at maximum.  Paradise Springs also does custom crush for other wineries, like Williams Gap.  So, what are their plans for the future?

I had a good discussion with Executive Winemaker, Rob Cox, who has seen how Paradise Springs has grown across his 11-year tenure and how it plans to grow in the future.  (Paradise Springs’ inaugural winemaker and general advisor was Chris Pearmund.)

In 2014, Paradise Springs opened a location in Santa Barbara, California and thus became Virginia’s first bi-coastal winery.  I’m not going to spend time on the Santa Barbara location or the wines it produces, some of which are available at the Clifton location.  Rob Cox works with a local winemaker, Doug Margerum, to produce around 2 to 3,000 cases per year.  I will say that there is no mixing of Virginia and California juice.  The Virginia wines are 100% Virginia.  California wines are totally Californian. 

The bigger growth area for Paradise Springs is the 298 acre property purchased this year in Crozet, Virginia, next door to King Family Vineyard.  While keeping the existing Viognier vines, the plan is to plant 60 – 80 acres of vines over the next five or six years with production at that facility planned eventually for 25,000 to 30,000 cases per year.  If that comes to fruition, it would place Paradise Springs in the top rank of Virginia producers.  The plan is also to renovate an old barn on the property into a tasting room by the Fall of 2023. 

With that kind of volume and bi-coastal exposure, I asked Rob Cox about his philosophy of winemaking and the unique aspects about winemaking in Virginia.  Rob’s basic approach is to work with what the grapes tell him, with little intervention.  This is largely dictated by Virginia’s variable climate.  One has to work with the growers constantly to get the best out of the grapes.  That level of hands-on attention is reflected in the bottle price.  [See the Pricing page for more detail.]  Compared with the consistent climate in California where growing is to some extent on auto-pilot, consistency vintage-to-vintage is not a commodity that Virginia is known for. 

But, in Rob’s view, Virginia is beginning to emerge from its experimental, trial-and-error stage to understand what grapes grow well in the climate.  In his view, for instance, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec don’t grow well or reliably in Virginia.  Just as years ago Oregon elected to focus on Pinot Noir, he sees Virginia as hanging its hat on Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot for reds, and Viognier, Chardonnay, and Petit Manseng for whites.  For experimentation, Rob likes Nebbiolo and Albariño.  I truly appreciate Rob spending some time with me. 

If you want a tasting, Paradise Springs offers two options: the Winemaker’s Flight of three whites and three reds for $15.00 or the $30.00 tasting of six reds.  In keeping with our normal practice for what you might experience, I had a tasting of what is probably the more common choice, the Winemaker’s Flight:

Viognier 2021.  Nice floral of honeysuckle and a touch of sweetness.  I bought a bottle

Chardonnay 2021.  Dry.  I found it a little tart and harsh. Not buttery.  Very little oak.

Sommet Blanc 2020.  Fruity.  Resembles a Riesling.  Slight sweetness.  Serve cold.  A good bargain at $29.00 a bottle.

Cabernet Franc 2019.  Light tannin.  Cherry, tobacco(?).  Good balance.  Light bodied.  Some good facets.  I bought a bottle.  This was a 2022 Governor's Cup gold medal winner. 

Petit Verdot 2020.  Moderate tannins.  Dark fruit.  Earthy aroma in the glass.  Good finish.

Mélange 2020.  Medium bodied.  Good value at $29.00 a bottle.  Moderate tannins.  Raspberry.  Late sweetness.  If I am staying at Paradise Springs for a longer event, I may buy a bottle of Mélange.

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