Old House Vneyard

December 21, 2022.  Our last winery review for 2022 will be Old House Vineyards in Culpeper.  We first visited Old House in Springtime years ago.  Back then, wine tastings happened in the 1890’s renovated farmhouse along a bar that could serve maybe five people.  I don’t recall the wine so much as meeting a group of fresh young girls in their bright prom dresses out to have their formal photos taken down by the pond.  As Neruda said: “Wine stirs the spring, joy grows like a plant.”  Our next visit came years later during an oppressively hot Summer afternoon.  By then Old House was serving mainly from a large outside bar.  But the heat made you feel as if you and your glass would melt into the grass.  Even wines that are perfect for Summer heat were of no avail that day. 

This, our third trip, came on the Winter Solstice during a clear and crisp interval between two Arctic blasts.  Old House rotates its serving venues from season to season.  In winter, with less traffic, they serve wine, beer and spirits from the brewery and pub building.  That is where we met up with Ryan Kearney, the General Manager and son of owners Patrick and Allyson Kearney, a pleasant young man enthusiastic about his work.  Thanks to Ryan for spending so much time with us. 

Originally an overgrown alfalfa farm, Patrick and Allyson first envisioned the property as a hunting and fishing venue but quickly moved to wine.  Since forming Old House Vineyards in 2001, they have built the operation in pieces: from the original old farmhouse for wine production, to a distillery in 2014, to a brewery in 2018.  Back in 2001, the experts at Virginia Tech said that grapes would not grow here.  But vines did begin to grow after the Kearney’s laid 22 linear miles of drain tile between the rows of vines to get around the layer of shale below ground.  Old House now has 30 acres under vine growing Vidal Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Chambourcin, and Tannat.  Around 90% of their wine production is from this estate, with the remainder from partnerships in the Charlottesville area – all Virginia juice.  Ryan noted that with Old House’s low elevation, they are more prone to frost than some wineries.  But a curious feature in nearby Mount Pony creates a microclimate where storms from the South break up and spare Old House vines from many of the worse weather effects.  They bottle on average 5,000 cases of wine a year with most harvest volume in Vidal Blanc.  The winery continues to be the focus of their endeavor, but over the years they have added so that there is something for everyone. 

Kearney’s Irish Pub is cozy in dark woods. Most of the woodwork and appointments are from Patrick’s shop.  A seat in front of the fireplace is especially coveted in the colder months.  It does seem as if many Virginia wineries are exploring a brewery option.  The distillery is still a little niche.  It did not look as if Old House has outdoor fire pits or heaters as some wineries do. 

The Green Ribbon kitchen at Old House is open Friday through Sunday, and outside food is also permitted in and out.  Dogs are allowed out of doors.  Old House does weddings, special events, and community gatherings.  They are booking 2024 and 2025 weddings now.  You can even fish in the pond. 

According to Ryan, Old House is planning several new products for 2023.  One is a sparkling Vidal to be made in partnership with Virginia Sparkling Company of Afton (Veritas and Three Fox).  In 2023, the distillery plans to release canned cocktails which will be low-alcohol mostly Rum drinks that could be sold in stores.  Perhaps beer may be offered in cans eventually - right now it is on tap only or in growlers.  Old House is also planning to offer more touring options, including wine/beer/spirits tastings during extended tours.  Throughout, the goal is to preserve an open informal atmosphere for visitors with a wide range of interests and tastes.  The goal for wine is that it is sourced locally and reflect where it is grown.  Ryan was anxious that Old House not become a reservation-only exclusive venue, a members-only venue, or one so focused on special events that wine and other production plays second fiddle.   

Old House allows you to design your own tastings of 4 wines from a menu of 16 choices.  Kim and I each had tastings and our impressions follow:

2020 Clover Hill.  Kim rated this a B-  This is a Vidal Blanc based wine similar to a Pinot Grigio.

2018 Chardonnay.  Kim rated this a B+. 

2019 Chardonnay Reserve.  Kim rated this an A.  Barrel-fermented and aged in French oak.  Honey and vanilla tones.

2021 Vidal Blanc.  Kim rated this a B-.  Off-dry wine similar to a Viognier.

2019 Cabernet Franc.  Peppery.  Medium-bodied.  Good finish on spice.  Threw some sediment.

2019 Petit Verdot.  Smooth warm cheery fruit.  Medium-bodied.  More sophisticated finish.

2020 Bacchanalia Reserve.  Higher alcohol.  Full-bodied.  Some earth tones.  Mild tannins.  Blend of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Merlot.

2020 Merlot.  Balanced tannins.  Full-bodied but lighter fruit. 

Location: 18351 Corkys Ln, Culpeper, VA 22701, USA

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