Hazy Mountain Vineyard and Brewery

July 9, 2022.  On a recommendation from Jimmy at Pippin Hill, we changed our trip itinerary to visit Hazy Mountain Vineyard and Brewery in Afton.  According to Jimmy, Pippin Hill’s chief competitor in the Charlottesville wedding venue market is Hazy Mountain.

We came to Hazy Mountain in a morning fog that announced a drizzly day in store.  Our first impression driving up the steep paved entry road was of ascending into a cloud surrounded on both sides by newly planted vines.  It is in fact a rise in elevation from 800 feet to 1140 feet in a short distance.  At the top of Turks Mountain, you find perhaps the largest parking lot in our experience for any Virginia winery, clean and newly lined.  Adjacent to the parking lot are two large event buildings: a 7,200 square foot three-story tasting room, and a separate 9,000 square foot events venue down the hill.  When we visited, the mountain was fogged over.  We couldn’t see the valley floor from the top.  I understand that behind that fog are views of Humpback Mountain and other Nelson County mountains to the South.

There was local opposition to the size and environmental impact of the Hazy Mountain project.  Locals anticipated that it would resemble to near-by Turks Mountain Winery and not the huge operation it is.  They filed complaints with Virginia environmental regulators with concerns about silt and run-off from clear-cutting the mountain side.  See, Lisa Martin, Dick Woods Project Tests Limits of Farm Winery Rules, Crozet Gazette, June 5, 2020, accessed at https://www.crozetgazette.com/2020/06/05/dick-woods-project-tests-limits-of-farm-winery-rules/  Apparently, the complaint was closed as the Tasting Room opened in May, 2021, and the Wedding Venue opened in November of 2021.  An interview with Sarah McGinnis, the General Manager and co-owner, indicated that neighbor concerns were reflected in their hours of operation and limitation on outdoor music.  She hoped environmental concerns would be resolved with the passage of time and the deepening of the grape vine roots.  See, Tricia Traugott, Hazy Mountain Vineyards Brings Tuscany to Virginia, Charlottesville Uncorked, June 24, 2021, accessed at https://charlottesvilleuncorked.com/2021/06/24/hazy-mountain-vineyards-brings-tuscany-to-virginia/ (photo of the front of the tasting room is from this article).

Further about the Vineyard and Winery.  Hillcrest Vineyard and Winery is the formal name for Hazy Mountain Vineyard and production facility in Afton and a second vineyard and production facility at Little North Mountain near Swoope, Virginia in the Staunton area.  Hazy Mountain has 35 acres of vines in Afton.  These were first planted in 2019 so they are just beginning to bear fruit this year.  I believe that most production happens at the second 50-acre vineyard and production facility in Swoope.  The properties belong to Michael and Sandra McGinnis who own an industrial refrigeration company.  The Afton part of Hillcrest is doing business as Hazy Mountain.

Their current production is around 15,000 cases with plans to go to around 20,000 cases per year.  Up to this year, they have used a custom crush arrangement for some of their wine, but they are getting out it in favor of their own winery production.  The brewery part of the business will not be operation until next year.  They plan to feature basic beer styles like pilsners and lagers.

The tasting room is a long open hall with two bars at one end and seating inside and on a covered veranda overlooking the valley.  

 

It does have a Tuscan feel in the warm peach and pink colors and stone facing, although an acquaintance of ours likened it to a large Olive Garden restaurant. Hazy Mountain does not accept the Virginia Wine Pass.  No outside food or pets are allowed.  they do have a good menu light bites menu that can be served inside or on the terrace.

We had the pleasure of sitting down with the Wine Club Manager Michael Gagliadi for marvelous extended tasting through most of their offerings.  We appreciate that he did this on short notice since this was a late add to our agenda.  Michael has plans for the Wine Club that include aggressive discounts on purchases, tiered membership, and benefits like complimentary tastings.  He is clearly the guy to take the Wine Club to exciting directions.  I asked Michael about relations with the neighbors, and he echoed Ms. McGinnis’ comments.  They are generally closed at 10:00 pm and don’t allow outside music.  They also take steps to limit individual car traffic during big events.  Certainly, their parking lot can accommodate a lot of buses.  The McGinnis’ that recently submitted plans to build an Inn for guest lodging nearby.

All of the wines were grown and produced at the North Mountain vineyard and winery in the Shenandoah AVA (Afton) unless otherwise noted.  And all wines are 100% Virginia fruit.  Here's what we tried and our impressions:

2019 Grüner Veltliner. The Grüner is light (11% ABV), with light tannin and floral notes on the back.  Stainless steel.  Decanting this wine may open it up.  Kim rated it a C.

2019 Dry Riesling.  This Riesling has gone through malolactic fermentation to soften and bring out oak aging.  I got some petrol on the palette.  Jimmy at Pippin Hill highly touted Hazy Mountain’s Rieslings.

2019 (Regular) Riesling.  This Riesling has 1% residual sugar and resembles a German Kabinett.  There is some acidity underneath.  Best served chilled.  The plan is grow Riesling at both Afton and North Mountain.

2018 Chardonnay.  Kim rated this a B+ and we bought a bottle.  Some buttery taste and oak.  Light alcohol – 13% ABV. 

2019 Chardonnay.  Kim rated this a B-.  It is a sharper Chardonnay than the 2018 version.  Stronger apple and less oak.  Slightly higher alcohol.

2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir & Merlot.  This Pinot Noir/Merlot blend is from the Monticello AVA.  Very flowery and tart/acid.  11% alcohol ABV.  Well-balanced and noted astringency.

2019 BVX Blend.  This is 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot blend reminiscent of a Left Bank Bordeaux.  Medium bodied at 14.5% ABV.  Good tannin.  We bought a bottle.  Michael Gagliadi provided further information that the BVX Blend and the 2019 Cabernet (below) are both made from Virginia fruit but from sources outside of the Monticello or Shenandoah AVAs.

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon.  This is a 100% Cab Sauv, with higher tannin and medium body.  The strongest wine on the list is good with heavy foods.  It is interesting how much of a difference 10% of Merlot can make.  The Merlot in the BVX softens and smooths the wine and contributes to its complexity. 

Michael also clarified that the Hazy Mountain White and Red, which we did not taste, will be house brands that can be duplicated year to year.  Therefore, they did not want to be restricted to a particular AVA for the fruit. 

In closing, we felt the wine at Hazy Mountain was good and bought some bottles for ourselves.  Now that the wedding venue is open and the events business will ramp-up in 2023, we hope that the management does not opt to turn Hazy Mountain into an expense account kind of destination.  They would do well to follow Michael’s model of great hospitality without pretentiousness.  Do not let size spoil the atmosphere.